Dodge Dana 44 Swaps And Disc Brake Swaps
The following article outlines some important information that every Dodge owner should be aware of of, especially if you are considering some form of front axle swap on a 1/2 or 3/4 ton. There is a lot of misinformation floating out there about Dodge trucks, even from so called "experts". This is actually a letter written by my buddy Kenneth and I, in response to a certain magazine's poor attempt at a Dodge article in their Jan. 2000 issue.
First it would be a bad idea to swap an axle, 1/2 or 3/4 ton, from a 72-74 to anything later, especially full-time. The pinion angle is completely wrong for the front u-joints to survive. If you want to use this axle for its better-than-full-time bearing setup, it would be necessary to only use the parts from the knuckles out minus the manual hubs. In place of the hubs, on 1/2 tons, you could use the caps and inner-parts from a later 85-93 axle, on 3/4 tons use the end cap from a 3/4 ton full-time Chevy or GMC. I speak from experience on this setup.
The swap that I prefer is all Dodge and it is really simple. Simply swap the later 80-93 steering knuckles onto the earlier axles. All years also used the same ball-joints. Use the older inner axle shafts with the newer outer shafts in your swap. Also, you may or may not be able to use the later trucks tie-rod as Dodge used at least three different widths of axles. 76-93 axles all seem to be the same width (identified by the high mounted tie-rod), the 75s are about 1/2 inch wider, and the 72-74 axles are one inch wider than the 75s. It is safest to just use the tie-rod that originally came with your axle. I speak with experience on this swap as well because I have a 1979 Powerwagon 3/4 ton full-time that I have swapped on the knuckles from an 85 3/4 ton. I still am running my truck full-time, but now I dont have the poor front bearing design. If your truck is a 74-79 half ton, this swap will change the front bolt pattern from 5 on 4.5 to 5 on 5.5. If you have a 9.25 rear axle, simply swap the axle shafts and drums to the later 5 on 5.5 by using 80-93 parts.
One other very important thing; there is a Torrington bearing inside the front spindles. The later axles with the center-axle vacuum disconnect (85-93) do not have these bearings in the drivers side spindle. They must be installed and can be obtained from a
drive train shop such as Six-States or most auto parts stores fairly inexpensively. The beauty of these swaps is the sheer simplicity. If you want to have part-time, just install a set of manual hubs and a kit in the full-time
transfer case and you are set to go. I personally love the full-time setup which comes in really handy here in Wyoming.
Lastly, I strongly oppose the use of all GM parts as was insinuated in the article. There are several problems with this approach. On the 1/2 tons, a GM swap would get you two things, 7/16 inch studs, and the GM 6-bolt pattern. Dodges use 1/2 inch studs on the half tons, why would you want 7/16 inch? There is also no simple or inexpensive way to change the rear axle to a 6-bolt pattern. On the 3/4 tons, the GM swap would get you the correct bolt pattern, but GM used 9/16 inch studs where again, the Dodges used 1/2 inch studs. No doubt the 9/16 inch studs are stronger, but there would be a mismatch between the front and rear. Also, if an all Dodge swap is performed on any full-time Dodge, the old brake calipers and pads can be reused on the new knuckles and discs . If you were to use GM parts you would have to use the GM calipers. GMs also used a larger diameter tie-rod end, that means a GM tie-rod would also have to be used. I am unsure, as I have never tried it, if a GM tie-rod would be the correct length for a Dodge axle. One more thing, dont even ask about using Ford parts.
By:
Kenneth and Trenton