Adding cruise control to your old Dodge is easy and very rewarding. The following is the what my 1975 Power Wagon required to be retrofitted with speed control. The procedure for other years should be very similar, and usually identical.

Half of my parts came from a 1976 Ramcharger, and the rest were from a 1974 Chrysler New Yorker. Since the New Yorker had a complete, and functional cruise control system, I used it's servo unit, speed control switch lever and the cruise linkage for the carb. From the Ramcharger, I got the servo fender bracket, brake light/cruise control switch and the wiring harness.

First, bolt the servo to the fender, connect the servo throttle cable, and the vacuum hose. Next remove the steering wheel and remove your original turn signal lever. Fish the new lever's pigtail down the steering column and attach the new lever. Reinstall the steering wheel. Next, install the brake light switch.

The wiring harness was in two sections. The first mounted under the dash, and the second section mounted under the hood. The sections join together in the junction block in the truck's firewall. You should have unused holes in the junction block reserved just for the cruise control. It really doesn't matter which holes you use, just make sure that the correct wires are connected to each other. For the cleanest installation however, record which holes were used by each wire in the donor truck before you remove the harness. Note: To remove the wires from the junction block, use needle nose plies to squeeze the sides of the spade connectors together. They are snapped into position, simply pulling on the wire will destroy it.

Lay the harnesses into position in you truck and make all of the connections. This is very easy, especially since you just removed the wires from another truck, right? Just in case you did forget how everything went together, I've included several wiring diagrams below.


Diagram for 1975 to 1976

Diagram for 1977

Diagram for 1978 to 1982

Diagram for 1983 to 1984



There is some adjustment that you may need to do still.

SPEED CONTROL THROTTLE CABLE
Remove spring clip and insert 1/16" diameter pin between forward end of slot in cable and carburetor linkage pin. With coke in full open position and carburetor at curb idle, pull back on cable (toward dash panel), without moving carburetor linkage, until all free play is removed. Tighten cable clamp bolt to 45 INCH lbs., remove pin and install clip.

BRAKE LIGHT/SPEED CONTROL SWITCH
1) Loosen switch assembly to pedal bracket screws, and slide switch assembly away from the pedal blade or push rod. Push in on brake pedal, release and allow pedal to return to natural position. NOTE: Do not pull back on brake pedal. Insert a suitable spacer gage .140" thick on pedal blade or push rod.
2) Slide switch assembly toward pedal blade or push rod until switch contacts spacer gauge with plunger depressed. Tighten switch bracket screws to 75 INCH lbs. Remove spacer and check that switch plunger does not hang up on pedal blade.

SERVO UNIT (LOCK IN SCREW ADJUSTMENT)
NOTE: Lock-in accuracy will be affected by engine being out of tune, adverse power-to-weight ratio, and improper slack in throttle control cable.
If speed drops more than 2 to 3 MPH when speed control is activated, lock-in adjusting screw should be turned counterclockwise approximately 1/4 turn for each 1 MPH correction required. If speed increases more than 2 to 3 MPH, turn screw clockwise approximately 1/4 turn for each 1 MPH correction required. If screw is loose, stake side of servo housing adjacent to ensure a snug fit.
CAUTION: Screw should never be turned more than 2 turns in either direction or damage to servo unit may occur.

If any of this is unclear, just let me know!

Trenton